26 vs. 27.5 Fat Bike Wheels

5-15-25 – Sven updated this article to reflect availability of fatbike tires and fatbike wheels.

Mi amigo Blatz pinged me the other day with a question. He’s planning a new fat bike build and asked, “Are 26 inch Fat bike wheels going the way of the Doo Doo bird ?” That’s a pretty common inquiry for anyone that’s N+1.

I’ve been test-riding 27.5 fat bike wheels side by side with 26-inch fat bike wheels since the spring of 2018.

The Fat-Bike Investment Theory

My theory on fat-bike wheels is based on a fat-bike consisting of two or three $2500 chunks: one for the frame and fork and two sets of wheels. What I’m getting at—perhaps a bit clumsily—is that wheels are just as important as your frame or components. A good wheelset dramatically influences how a bike rides, especially when it comes to flotation.

Do You Need Maximum Flotation?

Ask yourself: “Do I actually need max float?”

• If you weigh over 230 lbs or ride in deep, ungroomed snow or sand, the answer is probably yes.
• If you weigh under 200 lbs and stick to groomed trails, probably not.

In the 26″ world, maximum flotation typically means 4.8–5.05 inch tires on 100mm rims. Most 26″ fat bikes come with 80mm rims, which are great for most conditions. Riders who want the full spectrum—from groomed trails to deep snow—might need two wheelsets.

With 27.5 fat bike wheels, maximum flotation doesn’t come from wider rims—it comes from taller tires. This opens up a different strategy: instead of two sets of fat wheels, you might run 27.5 x 4.5 tires for float and 29 x 3.0 tires for faster, firmer rides, expanding your bike’s capabilities.

From where I stand, the max flotation comparison is a wash. Primarily because I ride a set of 100mm wide, feather-light HED 26″ wheels with Terrene Johnny 5’s for max float. If you don’t have a set of 100’s you might give a slight advantage to 27.5. 27.5 max flotation setups that stand ~80mm taller than 26-max. When I’m riding on the back of a greased pig (ungroomed snow) I’d rather have my center of gravity 80mm lower.

Bottom line: If you ride a fatty with 26″ wheels, you’re not missing out. In my opinion, going tubeless or upgrading to lighter carbon wheels is a smarter investment than switching wheel sizes.

What About Tire Availability?

When this article was originally written tire availability was spotty due to temporary supply chain delays that makes finding tires (26 or 27.5) that you can actually purchase much more of a challenge. Furthermore, not every tire maker has embraced the production of 27.5 tires. There’s no 27.5 version of Surly Bud & Lou or no 27.5 Schwalbe Jumbo Jims for example. So there was a short-term advantage to 26″ wheels in that category but now that the supply chain has stabilized somewhat in 2025 we have the specter of the tariffs that could again reek havoc on tire availability. We are compiling a list of fatbike tires that should be available for the 2025/2026 timeframe.

Should You Switch to 27.5?

You may not have a choice. Most new fat bikes come stock with 27.5″ wheels. Should you trade in your 26″ fatty? Only if you want to. From a performance standpoint, I’ve found no compelling reason to upgrade based solely on wheel size.

Here’s an interesting factoid – Corey Stelljes has won back to back Fat-Bike Birkies on a set of 26″ HED carbon wheels on tires that aren’t available in 27.5. So put that in your pipe and smoke it!

Final Thoughts

There’s nothing wrong with 27.5″ wheels. But tire selection is limited. Many older fat bikes can’t fit 27.5 x 4.5 tires in the rear triangle, though 27.5 x 4.0 usually fits (with exceptions like older Beargrease models).

There’s almost no ride difference between 26 x 4.0 and 27.5 x 4.0. The real distinction comes when you chase max float—and that’s currently constrained by tire availability.

So if you love your 26″ fatty, ride it like you stole it. If your new bike comes with 27.5s, just know your favorite tread patterns may not be available right away. And don’t expect a magical leap in ride quality.

#sameasiteverwas

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